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The next stage in the process..

2

As this will be using the New Standard Tuning which starts at a low G I wanted to emphasise the lows and mids therefore I have chosen a particularly lovely bit of western red cedar for the top wood..

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the front of each plate is planed flat

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being held in place by little jigs made of dowel

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then, using my largest Random Orbital Sander, the whole plate is sanded to a fine finish

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My trusty old shooting board is brought out and the center joint 'shot' carefully

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and then it just remains to glue everything in place.. after a test run or two of course!! 

11

after the glue has thouroughly dried I take the top out of the clamps and mark out the final outline

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dusty puppy... probably hungry and tired too, but that's youth for you..

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bored puppy...?

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After roughly cutting to the outline the whole top is thicknessed carefully

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and finally sanded to the correct finish for this stage.. this process obviously happens with both sides of the cedar...

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the main soundhole is marked out using this nifty little device

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and then cut to size carefully

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after much deliberation a relatively standard bracing pattern is decided upon and marked out

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and all the braces are planed, bandsawed etc to size

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the x-brace is fitted and notched

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and then glued using the Go-bar jig, the pressure of the dowels bent between the top and the brace hold everything in place while the glue dries..

8

a small violin-makers plane is used to trim the x-brace to size and round over the edges of it

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along with a very very sharp chisel to get in the spots the plane couldn't

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everything is then sanded down

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the other braces are cut to size and placed on the top to make sure everything works correctly

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then, using go-bar jig again, everything is clamped in place overnight..

1

all of the braces on this acoustic have now been glued in place and have to be shaped carefully for optimum tonal response, using a violin makers plane

2

and several very sharp chisels.  Every time I carve a brace I tap the top to hear the tone generated and also to hear how it has changed.. fun

6

next up I make a template for the bridge plate,

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and after cutting it out of a piece of rosewood the Go-bar jig is used to clamp it in place

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I play around with the positioning of the extra top soundholes, these will add an amazing amount of volume to the bass and also a certain extra sweetness to the mid response.. Just what is needed for the New Standard Tuning that this beauty will be using.

10

the soundholes are cut out

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then filed, sanded and profiled just how we want them..

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this will be a very attractive guitar!

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a single veneer is too thin for what I have in mind here, the pretty ones go on top and

2

are laminated together with the plain backing. 

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the white layer is a foam which compresses evenly between the clamping blocks and evens out any air pockets etc.. 

5

the laminated veneers are ready...

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I cut the design into each one with a jewelers saw

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the position is checked

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and eventually we have three rosettes in place..

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the bowl-back is ready and waiting... and so is the front.. almost

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the outline is cut roughly to size on the bandsaw

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pegged in place and test-clamped using large rubber bands

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and using many more for the actual job.. this will be left overnight to dry..

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the top has now been glued in place.. and the struts look great through the side sound-hole

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a sharp knife is used to cut the lines of the sun motif around the soundhole

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after sanding..

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the edges of the top are sanded flush with the ribs

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I then test the router on a surplus body

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and go stright to a really nerve wracking job, using a high speed router on something as delicate as this is always scary

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the top section is glued one half at a time

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followed by the outer segments of binding.. it goes ebony/maple/ebony/maple/walnut/maple/walnut.... I think..

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once dry the bindings are all planed and chiseled flush with the top

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leaving all the dirty glue marks etc..

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which are then sanded off to leave a lovely looking guitar

on to the neck...

crimson guitars...

 
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